If you’ve been searching Google and YouTube for tutorials on how to make a stained glass box, you’ve probably come across a few that are helpful but missing some of the information you need.

At least, this is what I encountered when I set off to make my first stained glass box.

So I’ve decided to put down all I’ve learned into two articles. The first covers the different methods of building a stained glass box, and the measurements needed. And this one, where I’ll cover step-by-step how to construct your stained glass box.

Mother’s Day just passed and I gifted someone with a simple, bevel stained glass box, and they loved it so much. I will definitely be creating more of these for both myself and as gifts.

As stained glass artists and hobbyists, it’s nice to have a plethora of things you can create with your craft just for these types of occasions. Or maybe you’re like me and you’re just obsessed with little boxes. Either way, I think this tutorial will be hugely beneficial in learning how to make a stained glass box of your own.

*Heads up: TGC is reader-supported and this page may include affiliate links. If you click and purchase, I may receive a small commission at no extra cost to you. As an Amazon Affiliate I earn from qualifying purchases. You can read my full disclosure here.

Today I will be making the stained glass box shown below:

This box is a simple flat lid box made with the inside corners method. This method is really best used with opaque glass so that you can’t see the corner edges through the glass. Keep this in mind if you’re following along and constructing your own stained glass box.

Step 1: Transfer Your Pattern to Glass

Before you can do anything else you’ll need to cut and grind all your pieces to size. If you’d like to follow along with the pattern I use in this tutorial, or one like it, I’ve created a free Bevel Stained Glass Box Pattern Pack with simple patterns created around various glass bevels. This pattern pack includes measurements for both inside corner and outside corner construction.

In my opinion, bevels are a great way to add elegance to a stained glass box. However, if you don’t have any of the required bevels for these patterns you can also simply switch those elements out with a piece of glass.

Whichever pattern you decide to use, you’ll need to transfer it to your glass to cut and grind your glass pieces to size. In this article I cover all the methods you can use to transfer your pattern. I personally prefer to use tracing paper to trace over my pattern so I can store and re-use my printed sheet of paper over and over again.

Step 2: Cut & Grind

With your pattern on your glass, it’s time to cut your glass pieces, and grind the glass down to size. There isn’t much else to say here.

**NOTE: If using a mirror on any part of your box, apply clear nail polish or painters tape to protect the backing of the mirror while grinding.

Step 3: Apply Copper Foil

Now that all your pieces are cut to size and ground down, it’s time to apply your copper foil. It’s best to use a thicker copper foil on stained glass boxes as it provides more surface area to solder to.

On my stained glass box I used 7/32 black-backed copper foil. However I would even go a little larger to ¼. If you’re unsure about copper foil sizing, I’ve created a free copper foil size guide that you can print and keep in your work area :).

When applying your copper foil, it’s important to try and align it perfectly center over your glass. If you have any overlapping pieces of tape sticking out once you varnish the tape down, you can use an X-Acto Knife to cut that area down to a straight line. You’ll want your copper foil to be as straight and even as possible since this will be where your solder will lay.

Step 4: Assemble Your Lid

At this point you can go ahead and assemble your lid if it contains two or more pieces. This way you can use it to check fit as you are piecing together the sides of your box.

Once your lid pieces are all soldered together, build up a soldered bead around all four edges.

Step 5: Tin Edges of Sides and Bottom

Once all your pieces have been foiled, you’ll need to tin all sides of your copper tape. To tin, simply lay down some flux over your copper tape and lightly coat the tape with solder.

You don’t want to build up any beads of solder at this point. Only tin. Your soldering iron should be between 360 and 420 degrees.

*Tip: Roll out a piece of solder and stick it straight up. That way you can grab a little solder with your soldering iron using only one hand.

Step 6: Tack Bottom & Top of Corner Sides

If you’re using the inside corners method (as shown in my photos) you’ll want to start with the end pieces. These are the pieces that will extend past your long side pieces to create a flat surface on either end of your long sides. The diagram below shows how this method is constructed:

You can either apply both your short end pieces first, or do like me and apply:

Short side
Long side
Short side
Long side

Either way, you’ll want to hold the box side in place and tack at the bottom corners.

Again, This method is really best used with opalescent glass as your box, unless you don’t mind the corner edges of your long sides showing through. If you’d prefer to use transparent glass, and want clean corners I would suggest using the outside corners method. The steps to making your box will be the same, however it will require more solder, and will be a lot easier to line up your edges using something like the pro box maker or the handy wedge.

**If you’re using an outside corners pattern, this step will be the same except your four corners will meet to create a V like the bottom edges shown above.

Step 7: Solder Flat Surface on Corners

At this stage I went ahead and soldered a nice bead on the four flat surfaces created by meeting my edges together (shown above.)

Make sure your pieces are lined up just right before you lay down the bead. Once all that solder is applied, it’ll be impossible to make any corrections.

Step 8: Solder All Inside Edges

Once all your sides are tacked together and to the bottom, and they appear to be straight and aligned correctly – you can begin soldering all of the inside edges.

This works best if you tilt your box so that the solder flows over the copper foiled edges nicely. It can be a little tricky getting your soldering iron in the right position. I used an extra spool of solder to set my box against and this worked pretty good.

Again, your soldering iron should be between 360 and 420 degrees.

Be sure to apply your flux over all your inside edges so the solder flows as smoothly as possible creating nice, beaded lines.

Step 9: Solder Bottom Edges

Now that you’ve soldered your side edges and all inside your box, you should only be left with a V-shaped channel on all four sides at the bottom.

Again, you’ll need to rest your box on something so you can solder with both hands. These V-shaped channels take A LOT of solder to fill, so you’ll need to be able to hold your solder up to your soldering iron.

The extra spool of solder worked great for this:

Step 10: Bead Top Edges

Your box is almost complete! The last soldering you need to do is to bead up your top edges. This way it’s a nice, smooth edge all the way around.

To do this, you can either use the tap-and-grab method mentioned above where I curl up my solder and grab it with one hand and lay down a little solder at a time. OR you can hold your solder to your soldering iron and slowly lay down a small bead. Try both and see what works best for you.

This step is easiest if your soldering iron is set to 360. This is because if your solder is too hot, it can melt down the sides of your box.

To learn more about beading and other soldering techniques, you can visit Stained Glass Soldering Basics.

Step 11: Wash off Flux

Now that all your soldering is complete, it’s time to wash off all the flux. A simple scrub brush with some Dawn or off-brand dish soap and water works fine.

You can even add a little baking-soda to your water.

Be sure to get all the creases in the inside of your box. You want to remove all the flux.

Wipe dry.

Step 12: Patina (optional)

If you wish to turn your solder black or copper, this is when you would apply your patina. Using an old toothbrush, rag, or Q-Tip, apply your patina liberally to your solder to change its color.

Re-wash to remove the remaining patina.

And you’re done! You’ve created your first stained glass box 🙂