Stained glass artworks can be composed of different things, but the main two materials are glass and metal. Solder used for stained glass is actually a metal alloy that contains a combination of different metals like tin, lead, copper, silver, bismuth, and/or zinc.
Different solders contain different combinations and ratios of metals. Therefore, you have a few options when choosing your solder based on your own personal preference, metal color, melting point, and behavior. The biggest difference in the type of solder you use is whether it contains lead or not. So lead-based solder, or lead-free solder.
So what kind of solder should you use for your stained glass?
In this article I’ll cover both the lead-based and lead-free solders so you can choose which type is right for you.
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Lead-Based Solder
Leaded solders contain some ratio of lead. Lead is a soft, yet highly durable metal that is resistant to corrosion. Lead also has a bad reputation because it can cause serious health issues if ingested. You may have heard many bad things about lead since it was banned in the late 70’s for use in paints and piping.
However, as long as your stained glass art won’t be constantly touching the body it is completely safe to use.
There’s a few different types of leaded solders you can choose from:
63/37 Solder
Melting point: 183°C / 361.4°F
63/37 contains 63% tin and 37% lead. Because this solder contains less lead, it has a slightly lower melting point. It also solidifies at a lower temperature, meaning it will harden on you quickly. Almost immediately, in fact. This can make it more difficult to get perfect solder beads since you can’t just run your iron back over it smoothly.
60/40 Solder
Melting point: 183 – 188°C / 361.4 – 370.4°F
Just how 63/37 is representative of the tin to lead mixture, 60/40 solder contains 60% tin and 40% lead. This is the solder most commonly used in stained glass.
This solder is great for beginners because it takes longer to harden which makes it easier to go over your solder until you have a smooth bead or joint. This is also the solder I most commonly use in all my pieces.
Quick Set Solder
Melting point: 361°C / 392°F
This is a 60/40 solder that contains an additive that allows it to set quickly. I’ve personally never used this solder, but it’s supposed to be great for creating decorative solder beads.
I’ll have to try this stuff out and update this article on my experience 🙂
50/50 Solder
Melting point: 183 – 212 °C/361.4 – 413.6°F
This solder contains more tin and therefore melts at a higher temperature. It’s great for filling in large gaps when they happen. Even if you’re using one of the leaded solders mentioned above, 50/50 is great to have on hand to use in combination for:
- Filling in large gaps to prevent your top solder from melting through
- A base for your softer solder
Lead-Free Solders
Lead free solders do not contain any lead, which makes them great choices for jewelry and other art pieces that will come in constant contact with the skin. You can also use this solder if you just prefer to offer art free of lead.
Just like with leaded solder, tin serves as the base metal, and is composed of a mixture of either nickel or silver, or both.
Because these solders include harder metals, they offer more strength than the leaded counterparts and melt at much higher temperatures.
I’ve seen a few artists mention lead free solder being a little more difficult to work with, but that has not been my experience. As long as my iron is at the appropriate temperature, I can’t see much of a difference from 60/40 or 50/50.
One thing you’ll notice is that lead-free solder can get VERY expensive. Here they are from least expensive to most expensive:
Traditional Lead Free Solder
When laid down, this solder looks a lot like the leaded solders, only more dull.
You can actually find some pretty affordable options for this solder. It’s still more expensive than buying a leaded solder, but nothing crazy. The solder linked here is the one I use, and is the most affordable one I’ve been able to find. However, I rarely use lead-free and if I made more jewelry all the time, I may consider trying Canfields lead free solder which is about double the price.
Pewter Finish Lead Free Solder
Melting point: 182 – 216° C / 361 – 421° F
This solder is the same color as silver, but with a matte finish instead of shiny. It contains a mixture of tin, silver, and copper alloy which gives it a more antique look.
This is where you start to see the price hike.
Silvergleem Lead Free Solder
Melting point: 215°C / 420° F
If you’re wanting to make stained glass jewelry that shines like silver, this is the best solder option.
You’re spending a lot of money here.
And that’s all your options for solder! Don’t be afraid to try them all out at some point so you can get an even better idea of how they all differ, and which one(s) you prefer.
Happy creating 🙂
