In Stained Glass Soldering Basics I covered all the basic information you need to begin soldering your stained glass projects. Now I want to cover some tips and tricks that are great to know, and hopefully can take your soldering skills to the next level.
These are things I’ve learned on my own while practicing my craft, some of which have taken years to realize. So I hope you find this information useful and it saves you time in progressing as a stained glass artist.
First I’ll cover some things I’ve learned that have helped me improve, then I’ll answer some common questions people generally have about soldering stained glass.
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Soldering Tips & Tricks
Use 50/50 solder to fill gaps
There is actually somewhere on this blog where I remember saying I don’t use my 50/50 solder much – well I need to find it and change it! I’ve been using my 50/50 solder more and more for filling in gaps and I can’t believe it took me so long.
Using 50/50 to fill in your gaps will save you from having globs of solder melt through to the other side. For a while I was using other little tricks – like rolling up copper foil, but that’s just silly. Especially when the 50/50 solder takes a third of the time, and works better.
Tap soldering for small spaces
If you’re working with small spaces, or maybe a very intricately taped area, tap soldering will help you to have more control and minimal flooding. It’s done just like tack soldering except instead of throwing down a dot of solder you’re using the solder on your iron to create a smooth solder line.
The example photo below is a piece I just completed, and these eye areas were all done with tap soldering – By the way I know what you’re thinking, and you are correct. I am crazy.
Go slower than you think you need to
Your ideal pace will come to you the more your practice. However, one thing I see with all beginners (including me when I first started) is the feeling that you have to go fast. By going fast it’s really hard to build up a nice bead. Just focus on your speed each time you practice and play around with what works best for you.
Joints Flood
Solder behaves a little like water when it’s molten. Have you ever seen two water droplets close together and the smaller one gets swallowed up by the larger one if it gets too close? Well, solder does this same thing.
Imagine you’re soldering a line and you take your iron all the way to a joint where maybe two or more lines meet. That solder is going to want to go to the joint. Your joint is going to swallow it up and possibly become flooded. If this happens, no worries! Simply remove some solder from that join by using our handy horizontal trick. Hold your iron down to re-melt the puddle of solder, lift up horizontally to remove solder, and get the solder off your iron using your wet sponge. Repeat until your joint is no longer flooded.
Now – if you need to go over your line, wait until the join is cooled off. Fix your line, and then hold it at the edge of that joint instead of melting ALL of the solder.
I hope that makes sense. I’ll make a video one day.
Know when to hold
There are a few times when soldering that you’ll want to hold down your iron for a few seconds. These include:
- Fixing a bump in a solder line
- Connecting two solder lines
- Re-melting area for repair
How long you need to hold down is just dependent on what you’re doing. You’ll know.
Don’t be afraid to go back over
When you’re first starting out solder is intimidating, but the more you work with it the more you realize just how non-permanent it is – well.. Since you have a soldering iron anyway ;).
Don’t be afraid to re-heat and go back over an area that doesn’t look good. This is hands down the best way you’re going to learn and improve.
Frequently Asked Questions
What kind of solder to use on stained glass?
There are all types of solder for stained glass, the most common being 60/40 solder.
How do you get perfect solder lines?
Practice. There’s no secret formula to perfect solder lines above the basic instructions. The only way to get closer to perfect is to practice.
Can you use too much flux when soldering?
Yes and no. Too much flux can cause white mold to grow on your solder lines. However, if you properly de-flux your piece during the cleaning process this shouldn’t be an issue.
Do you need a special soldering iron for stained glass?
You can use just about any soldering iron for stained glass, but the best kind is one with an adjustable temperature setting since the different metals used all have different melting points.
My personal favorite, and a favorite among many other artists is the Hakko FX601.
What temperature should my soldering iron be at?
It depends on the solder you’re using. Different types of solder have a different melting point. It’s also a little bit to do with your personal preference.
How do you fill gaps when soldering stained glass?
The best way to fill gaps when solder stained glass is by using 50/50 solder. Since 50/50 solder has a higher melting point, when you go over it with your regular solder it won’t melt through to the other side.
Why is my solder getting lumpy?
If your solder gets lumpy and stops flowing smoothly, it’s a sign you need to apply more flux.
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